Sino-Thai cuisine: Chinese heritage and the tradition of the wok

Seafood dim sum at a local restaurant on Koh Samui, a vibrant example of Sino-Thai culinary tradition.

Introduction – Between regional and ethnic cuisines

This article is the sixth part of a series dedicated to Thailand’s culinary diversity. The country presents an exceptional mosaic of cuisines, each shaped by geography and history: the mountain-influenced cuisine of the North, the sticky rice and chilli-based dishes of the North-East (Isan), the refined and balanced dishes of the Central Plains, and the spice-laden coastal cuisine of the South.

Beyond these regional identities, Thailand also embraces cross-regional ethnic cuisines. Among them, Sino-Thai cuisine occupies a special place. Born from successive Chinese migrations, it has become deeply rooted in the country’s economic, social, and culinary fabric. From the mountains of the North to the multicultural streets of Bangkok and the southern coastal provinces, it remains one of the most influential culinary traditions in Thailand today.

Chinese migration and its culinary legacy

Chinese migration to Thailand is relatively recent in historical terms. While trade existed as early as the Ayutthaya period, large migratory waves took place during the 19th and early 20th centuries, mainly from Yunnan and southern China. Many of these communities, often traders or craftsmen, settled along commercial routes and in major cities.

In northern Thailand, Chinese presence is particularly visible in Ban Rak Thai (Mae Hong Son province) and Santikhiri–Mae Salong (Chiang Rai province). Ban Rak Thai, an old Yunnanese village near the Burmese border, is known for its black tea and mountain dishes. Mae Salong was founded in the 1950s by soldiers of the Kuomintang’s 93rd Division who fled from Yunnan after the Chinese Civil War. Their settlement transformed the area, introducing oolong tea cultivation and distinctive Yunnanese recipes such as braised meats, noodle soups, and steamed buns.

Bangkok: the urban heart of the Chinese diaspora

In Bangkok, the Chinese community concentrated around Yaowarat, the capital’s historic Chinatown. Established at the end of the 18th century under King Rama I, it initially housed merchants relocated from the old capital area. Over time, Yaowarat evolved into a bustling commercial hub dominated by Teochew, Hokkien, and Cantonese traders.

Today, Yaowarat remains a vibrant symbol of Sino-Thai culture. Street stalls selling noodles, dim sum, and roasted meats such as crispy pork and duck coexist with Chinese temples and herbal medicine shops. The cuisine here bridges two worlds: Chinese in technique and flavour, Thai in ingredients and adaptation. The wok, soy sauce, and clear broths often replace the chilli and curry paste typical of central Thai cooking.

Southern Thailand: dim sum and Hokkien influences

In southern Thailand, Chinese influence takes another form. The provinces of Phuket, Trang, and Songkhla have significant Hokkien communities. Once major trading ports with strong ties to Malaysia and Singapore, they developed a distinctive breakfast culture centred on dim sum.

In Phuket, locals begin their day in teahouses serving steaming baskets of dumplings, buns, and seafood bites. This tradition stems from the island’s Taoist Vegetarian Festival, brought by Hokkien settlers. The event perfectly illustrates Sino-Thai fusion: Chinese dishes reinterpreted with local Thai ingredients, blending spirituality and gastronomy in an act of culinary purification.

To learn more about this festival, read our article on vegetarian and vegan Thai cuisine.

Defining features of Sino-Thai cuisine

Sino-Thai cuisine stands out for its balance of sweetness, salinity, and depth, without relying heavily on chilli. Its key characteristics include:

• Use of the wok for fast stir-frying

• A mix of stir-fried and slow-braised dishes, often based on pork or chicken

• Frequent use of dark soy sauce, sesame oil, and fresh ginger

• Chinese spices rarely used in Thai cooking, such as cinnamon, star anise, and cloves

• Dried mushrooms, tofu, rice noodles, and clear broths as staples

These elements contrast with classical Thai cuisine, which highlights lime, lemongrass, and shrimp paste.

Signature dishes

Several dishes have become national favourites:

• Pork noodle soup

• Steamed wontons

• Sweet-and-sour prawns with pineapple

• Crab with glass noodles

• Pad see ew (soy-sauce stir-fried noodles)

• Moo Palo (braised pork with spices)

• Chicken with ginger

Each embodies a dual identity: Chinese in technique, Thai in produce. Balanced, subtle, and accessible, these recipes appeal to every palate.

Learning and tasting Sino-Thai cuisine on Koh Samui

At InFusion Cooking Classes Koh Samui, we teach many of these dishes as part of our programmes: 3-hour and 5-hour private classes, multi-day professional courses, and our 12-month culinary programme eligible for Thailand’s Destination Thailand Visa (DTV).

But on Koh Samui, you can not only learn this cuisine, you can also taste it locally. For an authentic breakfast experience, visit Bangkok Porridge in Nathon. This small morning restaurant serves classic Sino-Thai fare: seafood dim sum, rice porridge soups, and the famous patong ko fried dough sticks.

Next in the series: Muslim cuisine of southern Thailand

This article concludes the first section of our series on Thailand’s ethnic cuisines. The next will explore the Muslim cuisine of the South, heir to the Sultanate of Pattani and characterised by turmeric, cardamom, coconut milk, and long simmering techniques.

Two different culinary worlds, two foreign heritages, and a single reality: Thailand is a cultural melting pot where migrations have shaped one of the most diverse gastronomic traditions in Asia.