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Thai Curries, understanding an exceptional diversity

Bowl of khao soi illustrating the diversity of Thai curries and the richness of regional culinary traditions.
Thai curries, an expression of Thailand’s regional and technical culinary diversity.

A culinary world characterised by diversity

Some Thai curries have gained such popularity abroad that they have become emblematic. These are mainly curries from the Central Plains, including green curry, panang curry and several preparations often referred to as red curries, although they are known under different names in Thailand. Other internationally renowned curries come from Muslim culinary traditions, such as Chiang Mai curry, known as khao soi, and massaman curry. What do they have in common? They are mild and based on a coconut milk soup. They do represent part of Thai cuisine, but only a small fraction of its true diversity.


In reality, Thailand has well over one hundred different curries. They are defined by their ingredients, their cooking methods and their regional origins. Curries from the North, Isan, the Central Plains and the South each show marked variations. Even within a single region, differences are numerous. This diversity is one of the defining features of Thai cuisine and it is vividly expressed through its curries.


A diversity of ingredients

All Thai curry pastes begin with a base of fresh ingredients. The most common are lemongrass, galangal, shallots and garlic. To this foundation are added elements specific to each recipe and region. Kaffir lime zest is frequently used, especially in green curry, panang curry and several curries from the Central Plains, but also in other regions. Additional rhizomes may be combined with galangal. This is particularly true in the South where turmeric is widely used. Others include Boesenbergia rotunda, known as krachai, a highly aromatic rhizome.


Although every curry paste contains fresh ingredients, most also combine dried spices in varying proportions. Using coriander seeds, cumin seeds and white pepper is very common. In the South, cooks often favour black pepper over white. Muslim curries are characterised by a broader palette of dried spices, with massaman curry being the most prominent example. In addition to coriander and cumin, it includes spices that are rarely used outside Muslim or Chinese influenced Thai cuisines, such as cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom and star anise.


Chillies are the one element shared by all curry pastes. In Thailand, curries are primarily made with dried chillies which are always red. Bird’s eye chillies and cayenne chillies are the most common. When dried, they develop a more pronounced aroma than when fresh. Green curry is an exception, as its colour comes mainly from the use of fresh green chillies and chilli leaves. More generally, fresh chillies are rarely used in curry pastes.


A diversity of cooking methods

Curries also vary according to their cooking methods. Some belong to the family of dry curries, such as kua kling, which is stir cooked with very little or no added fat. The paste is cooked directly with the meat, often pork, which releases its own fat. This type of curry is very spicy because nothing counterbalances the heat of the chillies.


Other curries are stir cooked and are known in Thailand as kaeng kua. They may be cooked with oil, sometimes with a small amount of stock added to create a light sauce. When cooked with coconut cream, they take on a richer and milder texture.


Care should be taken not to confuse kaeng kua with another family of curries that may appear similar, at least visually, known as choo chee. These curries rely on a reduced coconut cream sauce.


There are also curries cooked by steaming, often in banana leaves, whether open or wrapped. The best known are homok, though there are many regional variants of steamed curries.


Soup curries form another category. Most are prepared with stock. A good example is kaeng som, the sour curry, which exists both in the Central Plains, where it is moderately spicy, and in the South, where it reaches very high levels of heat. Other soup curries are based on coconut milk or coconut cream. These are the best known outside Thailand.


Finally, a number of dishes rely on chilli pastes prepared using similar cooking methods, although they are not considered curries. The distinction can sometimes be subtle.


Understanding the main families of curries

It is now clear that Thai curries form a remarkably varied world. It can be rather overwhelming at first, especially since in Thailand curries are not named by their colour. The only curry designated by its colour is green curry. How does one navigate the rest? The answer is that it is complex, even for Thais.

To understand the typology of Thai curries, one must consider both the cooking method and the region, as several versions of the same curry often coexist across the country. Imagine a two dimensional table. You can now start filling in the boxes.


Let us return to the example of kua kling mentioned earlier. It belongs to the family of stir-fried curries and to the subfamily of dry curries. It originates in the South and is recognised for its use of turmeric and a very spicy paste. There is also an Isan version of this recipe. The version from Korat, Nakhon Ratchasima, is a regional adaptation that is milder, using a different paste, often without turmeric, with a texture that is slightly less dry.


The same applies to other curries, such as kaeng som, which is widely appreciated across the Kingdom. The southern version differs significantly from the version found in the Central Plains. The same observation can be made for choo chee curry.


Conversely, some curries are little known even within Thailand because they rely on highly local or seasonal ingredients. This is the case for many northern curries which are relatively unknown, sometimes even entirely unfamiliar outside their region of origin. Not every curry has an equivalent in other parts of the country.


Curry pastes, a living tradition

In Thailand, curry paste is traditionally prepared in a stone mortar. This technique naturally predates electricity, but it remains widely used. The mortar allows aromas and essential oils to be released fully and gives the paste a texture that machines cannot replicate. There is even a Thai expression that says that food is good when the sound of the pestle can be heard in the house. It evokes attentive preparation, patience and a careful approach to flavour.


In Thai markets, curry pastes are machine made but still prepared from fresh ingredients. They keep well because their high chilli content acts as a natural preservative. Industrial pastes are common, but when cooking for guests or for special occasions, homemade paste remains the reference.


Conclusion

Thai curries reflect an exceptional diversity of regions and techniques. They are far more than the delicious coconut based recipes known abroad. Each region has its own family of curries with distinctive ingredients and methods. To explore these culinary traditions in more depth, you will soon be able to read our articles dedicated to regional curries, ingredients and cooking techniques. If you have any questions about a curry or a paste you would like to prepare, feel free to contact us or comment on this post. We are always delighted to help.


Placing Thai curries in a broader context

For those who wish to deepen their understanding of Thai curries, it is useful to place them within the broader culinary framework of Thailand. Curries are part of a wider set of regional traditions, techniques and ingredients that shape Thai cuisine as a whole. Understanding these contexts allows you to better appreciate the diversity of curries and their variations from one region to another.


Further exploration: discovering Thai cuisine

Curries are only one entry point into the richness of Thai cuisine. If you are interested in these topics, you may also enjoy reading our articles on the regional cuisines of Thailand, as well as our article on vegetarian and vegan Thai cuisine. Each article presents the essential culinary foundations, characteristic ingredients and representative specialities.


Cooking classes on Koh Samui

If you would like to learn how to prepare these curries properly, we offer private cooking classes in Koh Samui. You will discover traditional techniques, learn how to balance flavours and prepare your own curry pastes. All our options are presented on the page dedicated to our cooking classes.


Twenty five curry recipes in our book

Our book devoted to Thai curries brings together twenty five emblematic recipes as well as others that are more discreet yet equally representative of the Kingdom. You will find dry curries, stir-fried curries, soup curries and steamed curries, with detailed explanations on ingredients and techniques. You can also discover other classic curry recipes in our regional cookbooks and in the free recipes available on our blog.


Curries
THB 190.00
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